Reviews

-Time Out New York- With Brooklyn officially drunk on high-end bars, Queens is gradually becoming the next frontier of quality outer-borough imbibing. First came the speakeasy Dutch Kills, then the sprawling biergarten Studio Square. Sweet Afton (from the owners of Wilfie & Nell), the latest ambitious watering hole to plant its flag in Queens County, falls somewhere in between: a homey gastropub that aims to make a respectable cocktail. Despite its well-rounded aspirations, we best enjoyed the bar with a beer in hand. The attractive space, which marries an industrial feel—lots of concrete and massive beams—to the dim, dark-wood coziness of an Irish pub, excels with a smartly curated array of reasonably priced suds, including strong selections from craft breweries like Kelso, Fire Island and Captain Lawrence. Despite the appreciation for pedigreed hops, the unpretentious bartender will just as happily crack open a cheap bottle or can of everyday ale like Modleo, Amstel and Miller. We took pleasure in a drink that reflected the pub’s down-to-earth spirit—a spicy pickle martini made with vodka and garlicky McClure’s pickle juice. The same low-key appeal prevailed on the short but satisfying food menu. There’s a perfectly charred Pat LaFrieda burger ($8), a crusty grilled cheese oozing Murray’s-sourced cheddar ($7) and—epic bar-snack alert—beer-battered McClure’s pickle ($4). Queens nightlife may be diversifying, but Sweet Afton—with its balance of humble pubbiness and artisanal touches—is our pick for an easy, honest drink.

[ back ]